This post has been written for a long time, but I have been waiting to post it since the completed project was a surprise. Early this year, I decided to start learning Amigurumi. When I decided to learn and teach the Bunny Lovey at the same time, it was because I had already completed Hobbes and had a little bit of practice. When I first saw Sukigirl’s Hobbes Pattern, I bookmarked it because I knew I was nowhere near ready to attempt it. So, when I finally had a few more projects under my belt, I decided to make Hobbes. It went so well that my husband requested I make another one. He and his brother grew up loving Calvin and Hobbes, so second Hobbes has been waiting patiently for months to be a birthday gift.

Amigurumi is a ton of fun, but not like any other type of crochet I have attempted. Trying to make a piece that can be viewed from every angle is difficult, and even with two tries, I’m still learning. I made a few adjustments to Sukigirl’s Hobbes, based on my abilities, and then made even other adjustments the second time. For the full pattern that she created, go to her blog. Below I only have instructions for the changes I made.

To watch short videos that teach the stitches in the pattern, go here: magic circle, sc, sl knot and ch, sl st

For both Hobbes, I used a 5.0mm (US H) hook, Turkish yarn similar to Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, and 100% Polyester stuffing.

For Hobbes Take 1, I made the following changes.

For body, between each row, sl st, chain one. When switching colors, chain 2, and then pull down on original color yarn behind. Put first st into the bottom of the ch1 spot. This kept the seam closer to straight down his back and on each of the limbs, but also created a bump that I did not care for. I changed this for Hobbes Take 2, when I felt more comfortable crocheting in a spiral.

For legs, to end each row, sl st, ch1, then start in next st. At the last stitch, skip one and sl st into the ch1 from the beginning. Again, this created a bump.

For tail, after row three, work in even 3 more rows of black before switching to orange.

For arms, do not do last two black rows.

For belly, chain 9, skip 1ch, 1 sc into next 8, ch 1 and turn. (At the end of every row ch 1 and turn) Three rows with 8sc. Add extra sc into 1st and last stitch of row 4 (10 total). Rows 5-9 with 10 sc total. Row 10 add extra sc into 1st and last stitch (12 total). Rows 11-15 with 12 sc total. Row 16 add extra sc into 1st and last stitch (14 total). Rows 17-18 with 14 total. Row 19 decrease 1 sc in 1st and last stitch (12 total). Rows 20-21 with 12 total. Row 22 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (10 total). Rows 23-24 with 10 total. Row 25 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (8 total). Row 26 with 8 total. Row 27 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (6 total). Row 28 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (4 total). Sl st and tie off.

For head, starting in round 10, with black and orange, start 16 black, 16 orange, 16 black. This was because I realized at this point that my method of joining the rows left a bump, and I wanted it at the back of his head instead of on the side.

I did not use felt, but made eyes, nose, and stripes with black yarn and 5.0 mm (US H) hook

For eyes (make 2): magic circle with 5 sc, sl st, tie off, stretch into oval. They didn’t stay looking like an oval, so I changed these for Hobbes Take 2.

For nose: sl st, ch 2, in first row, sc 1, ch 1, turn, second row 2 sc, ch 1, turn, third row, 1 sc in each st, 2 in last st, ch 1, turn, fourth row, 1 sc in each st, 2 in last st, tie off

For stripes (make 2): st st, ch 15, 14 sc, tie off

For mouth: single yarn strands.

As a whole, I love Hobbes Take 1, but he is not the best he could be. So, here are the changes for Hobbes Take 2.

I worked in spiral instead of sl st and chaining one between rows for all pieces of Hobbes. For color changes, I followed the blog that Sukigirl linked to at NeedleNoodles explaining how to have jogless stripes when working in single crochet spiral.

For tail, after row three, work in even 2 more rows of black before switching to orange

For arms, do not do last two black rows.

For belly, chain 9, skip 1ch, 1 sc into next 8, ch 1 and turn. (At the end of every row ch 1 and turn) Three rows with 8sc. Add extra sc into 1st and last stitch of row 4 (10 total). Rows 5-9 with 10 sc total. Row 10 add extra sc into 1st and last stitch (12 total). Rows 11-15 with 12 sc total. Row 16 add extra sc into 1st and last stitch (14 total). Rows 17-18 with 14 total. Row 19 decrease 1 sc in 1st and last stitch (12 total). Rows 20-21 with 12 total. Row 22 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (10 total). Rows 23-24 with 10 total. Row 25 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (8 total). Row 26 with 8 total. Row 27 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (6 total). Row 28 decrease 1 sc in first and last stitch (4 total). Sl st and tie off. [Same as Hobbes Take 1, but different from Sukigirl’s Hobbes]

For head, added another black stripe in rows 19-20. sl st into last st at end.

For body, finished with two sl sl to cover black yarn

Again, I did not use felt, but made eyes, nose, and stripes with black yarn and 5.0mm (US H) hook

For eyes (make 2): magic circle with 5 sc, sl st, ch 1, sc starting in same st so 6 total spots, 1 sc in first 2, increase in 3rd, repeat, sl st and tie off

For nose, sl knot, ch 2, in first row, sc 1, ch 1, turn, second row 2 sc, ch 1, turn, third row, 1 sc in each st, 2 in last st, ch 1, turn, fourth row, 1 sc in each st, 2 in last st, fifth row, same, tie off

For stripes (make 2): sl knot, ch 15, 14 sc, tie off

For mouth: single yarn strands

When you’re creating things, whether its based off someone else’s pattern or your own, there is always room to make customizations. Sometimes, they can be made to improve the outcome, or other times to improve the creating process. Both Hobbes Take 1 and Take 2 were so much fun to make, and I love each of them.